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ou no longer need to travel to Brazil, Colombia, Indo- nesia or Vietnam to witness how coffee is grown and produced. One farmer has found that Southern Cali- fornia's unique ecosystem and ideal growing conditions made it a quintessential place to grow coffee. In 2002, Jay Ruskey planted the frst coffee trees on his farm, Good Land Organics, located in the hills of Goleta, CA. Now, in 2014, Ruskey is harvesting several coffee varieties, making him the frst commercial coffee grower in the continental U.S. Climate infuences In Hawaii, the only U.S. state previously known to pro- duce coffee, farmers grow their crop at elevations of 2,000 to 3,000 feet, while in places like Central America, coffee grows between 4,000 to 6,000 feet. In the foothills of Santa Barbara, CA, however, Ruskey grows his crop at an elevation of 650 feet. But that doesn't negatively affect the taste of his coffee. "What we lack in altitude, we make up in latitude," said Ruskey. Ruskey's coffee variety Caturra received a cupping score of 91 this month from Coffee Review and its Geisha received a cupping score of 88.5 earlier this year from a registered Q Grader. According to the Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA) guidelines, a score of 85 to 89.99 is deemed "excellent" while a score of 90 and above is "outstanding." A score that receives an 80 or above is considered "specialty." The southern climate gives the California-grown coffee tree the ability to thrive. It brings with it coastal tempera- tures, frost-free winters and mild summers. Additionally, the unique California ecosystem includes rich clay loam soil and climate patterns that contribute to the ability to grow coffee beans and other specialty sub-tropical fruits. Where it all began Ruskey, who farms a variety of fruits, had been partner- ing with Mark Gaskell, a small crop specialist from the University of California Cooperative Extension, on several projects for a few years when in the early 2000s Gaskell approached Ruskey about growing coffee on his farm. "He showed up and said, "Plant these" and he handed me coffee trees," said Ruskey with a laugh. "He also bought me my frst depulper." Over the last decade Ruskey has learned how to become a coffee farmer. He uses a Cen- tral American process where he grows his coffee under avocado plants. "The avocados protect the cherries from wind," he said. "But it's too early to tell whether or not they are affecting the taste of the cherry." Unlike Central and South America coffee farmers, however, Ruskey uses fertigation to irrigate his coffee crop. "Draught has been the toughest threat I've had thus far," he said. Not the only one Ruskey, the frst and largest California coffee grower, is now not the only one. "Other growers are using the coffee plants that I grow and sell to them," said Ruskey. He is also open to having people study his coffee. "There are many advances in disease resistance with other crops," he said. "So why not coffee?" For now, he and his staff will continue to harvest the beans and sell them at farmers' markets and online. California coffee beans, though small in number, are surely making a name for themselves. Y A cup of coffee... from California? One California farmer is fnding that great coffee can grow outside 'traditional' coffee environments. By Adrienne Zimmer, Assistant Editor Jay Ruskey can grow specialty coffee at an elevation of 650 feet. 91 Cupping score that Caturra received 90 + is "outstanding" Good Land Organics In the past October issue, as part of the OCS sponsorship, a Folgers ® coffee ad, owned by The J.M. Smucker Company, was placed adjacent to the OCS Update editorial. The J.M. Smucker Company and its affliates had no relationship to the content nor endorsed any claims contained therein. 12 Automatic Merchandiser VendingMarketWatch.com December 2014 O C S U P D A T E